On an absolutely
dark and starry night, somewhere in the western sector (the “somewhere in the
western sector” phrase always invokes a splendid sense of drama in my mind, of
pilots and their fighter aircraft on Alert and suddenly with sirens blaring,
they scramble to intercept an enemy …), Sango and I got airborne for a ferry
back to base. With the usual set up formalities completed, which meant that we
were cruising at our intended level, at the correct speed, the aircraft
navigating accurately with the help of GPS and on autopilot meant that we had
precious little to do. A regular scan of the vital parameters including the
TCAS and few and far interspersed RT natter was all that broke the reverie. The
route we were flying thankfully was sparsely frequented, which meant that
neither was there much traffic, nor were there any major towns and cities
below.
The Milky way as seen from Mt Paranal Obsrvatory |
Having finished the in flight
snack, a kind of wooziness was beginning to creep in, when suddenly, a flash of
light streaked across the sky. “Did you see the shooting star I exclaimed?”,
completely wide awake now. We both scanned the skies to spot any other streak
but sadly that wasn’t to be. But what we did notice, at 35000 feet, free from
the haze and dust of the earth, free of the interference from terrestrial light
was the dance of the cosmos all around us. From end to end, as far as we could
crane our necks, we could see the star studded sky and like a light saber
slashing through the sky and cleaving it into two halves, with steamy vapours
swirling around was the Milky Way. I could only be tremendously envious of the
astronomers who lived and worked at Mt Paranal, witnessing the wonder of
creation as they peered into the depths of the cosmos every night.
Orion-the Hunter |
We spotted Orion
the hunter and identified his belt, his sword, his shoulders and his bow. We
traversed across the sky to spot the “Big Dipper” or the Wheel Barrow and saw
how we could spot the Pole star from the Dipper. Contrary to popular belief, the Pole Star,
North Star or Polaris is not the brightest star in the sky. That title belongs to
Sirius Major. And why is the North Star of such importance to us Navigators, of
the land, sea and the sky? Because it’s the only thing in the firmament which
stays constant ALWAYS. Imagine you are a prophet and instead of your followers,
the common people standing beneath you, your followers are the stars of the
sky. Now navigate to face the North Star and raise your arms, much like Moses
did when he held the 10
commandments up. Instead of the commandments, you are
touching the sky and imagine it to be a 2 Dimensional sheet of dark paper with
pinpoints of light, which are the stars in the sky. Now swivel your arms, left
hand down and right hand up (Michael Jackson style- leave out the pelvic thrust
though:-p) to rotate the night sky. The entire sky will rotate ABOUT the North Star;
it stays constant (in line with the axis of Earth’s rotation-at least for the
next 5-6000 years!!) The best way is to experience it and not imagine it.
Choose a beach, a hilltop or any elevated place, spot the North star and then
the Big Dipper, Orion or the Cassiopeia and follow its position every half an
hour and you will actually SEE the sky rotate and if you are a little high on
hash or some stuff, you can feel the Earth rotate !!!! (Try Manali, both for
the sky and the Hash!!) We unfortunately couldn’t spot Cassiopeia or the “W
Star” because she was submerged beneath the horizon and our journey was too
short for her to rise above Gaea, the Greek Goddess who was the Earth.
The Big Dipper |
We could only gaze
in awe and wonder at this spectacle surrounding us and wonder how someone could
ever doubt the existence of a higher power. The night sky truly makes you feel
insignificant. Another place to experience the night sky in all its glory is to
take a “Night Desert Safari” in Jaisalmer. Aparna & I had done this in 2001
and our companions were two Britishers, husband and wife. We set off in an open
topped Jeep at about 9 in the night after a good meal and our affable and
garrulous driver Umed Singh, with a thin but sharply upturned moustache regaled
us with stories of bravery of the Rajputs of yore. Having visited a temple at
Ludarva, as we were halfway to someplace else, I happened to look up and was
transfixed by the night sky. I quickly asked Umed Singh to stop and we all
jumped off the Jeep and I led Aparna and the Brits to lie down on the sand by
the road, as we saw the most unimaginable number of stars in the clearest of
night skies from horizon to horizon, all 360 degrees around. It felt like
someone had just transported us from the earth deep into interstellar space.
Back to 2017. My
neck felt a little stiff from all the craning and I let it rest by turning my
head down and to the right. As I did so, I saw out of the right windscreen and
saw something I had never seen before. We were traversing over the land of
Rajasthan, Gujarat and Madhya Pradesh and these regions are sparsely populated.
So instead of large villages well connected by roads, you have small clusters
of villages called “Dhani” (In Rajasthani) pockmarked across the surface of our
land. They are non descript and unexceptional during day. A few tens of huts,
under a hundred, in close proximity to each other. Earlier they were made of
dung and mud walls with thatched roofs, slowly being replaced with cement and
pucca walls and roofs. By night with the advent of electrical connectivity,
they (the Dhani) appeared as small pockets or clusters of lights. And when your
gaze travelled across the breadth of the land, it looked astonishingly
beautiful, like god had spilled a pot of diamonds and precious stones on a dark
carpet and instead of individual stones, a few each had huddled together as
groups all across the carpet. I can only describe it to you as best as I can
since unfortunately I only had my phone camera, which was incapable of
capturing this beauty. As I gazed at this, I felt that this is how it would
have looked when Kannagi broke open her bracelet in front of the king and out
spilled rubies on the floor….
The tale of
Kannagi is from the Tamil epic Silapathikkaram, traced back more than 1500
years ago to the days of the Pandyan rulers of the temple town of Madurai in
Tamil Nadu. Kannagi was a woman who was married to Kovalan, a wealthy merchant
and they enjoy a blissful wedded life. In his travels, he comes across a
beautiful dancer Madhavi who entrances him with her beauty and grace.
Forgetting his duty to his wife, he spends more and more of his time with
Madhavi, at the cost of his wife. Kannagi is perturbed with his now regular
unexplained absences, his aloofness from her and the vanishing money. She sends
her hand maiden to follow Kovalan, who reports back on his affair with Madhavi
and him splurging all his wealth on her. Kannagi is heartbroken, distraught at
her husband’s infidelity and then finally incensed at being treated thus and
she confronts Kovalan fierily. Her now penniless husband realizes his
mistake and promises to make amends. Since he is penniless, Kannagi offers her
anklet made of gold, for him to pawn and help kick start his business. As he
tries to pawn the anklet, an overzealous jeweler reports to the king that the
Queen’s missing anklet has been traced. Promptly the royal guards arrive and
take Kovalan into custody. When brought before the King, Kovalan pleads his
innocence but the King is unmoved, especially since the Queen recognizes the
anklet to be hers. Kovalan is ordered to be killed. When news of this reaches
Kannagi, she rushes before the King and challenges the verdict passed on
Kovalan. The King dismisses her pleas of her husband’s innocence. This enrages
Kannagi and she seizes the anklet and breaks it apart. And out pour rubies and
scatter across the floor. She now mocks the Queen since the Queen’s anklet was
filled with pearls. The King, ashen faced at this turn of events summons his
Dewan, but it is too late, Kovalan has already been done to death. On hearing
this, Kannagi is overcome with grief at her loss and enraged at this
miscarriage of justice and curses the King that Madurai would be burnt to
ashes……
Kannagi breaking the anklet in front of the King |
I have seen
Silapathikkaram as a dance drama and though when Kannagi broke her bracelet in
the drama, rubies did not spill out as I had imagined, I did see them, on the
earth, when flying in the skies above that dark and clear night….
Impressive...the way you traverse from the sky to the earth, then back to space...and then into stories long forgotten. The rubies do enchant me and wish I could find them for me too some day. Thanks for a lovely read.
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